Book One: The Beginner

Book Two: The Intermediate

Book Three: The Modern Alpine Ski Racer

Introduction

Skiing down a steep white mountain fresh with yesterday's storm bounty is skiing's biggest reward. It's an effortless romp on the endless trampline, a feeling of weightlessness and adrenaline pump, and I'm challenged to give even an inkling of what it actually feels like. As a kid, I was so taken, I skied everyday, eventually went to a ski college and finally moved to the mountains full well knowing that traditional careers would take a backseat to my passions!

You will learn that skiing gets better with experience, and as you gets more confidence and skill, the mountain opens up and gives her true thrill... the steeps, powder fields and hidden avalanche chutes--the things x-games and extreme skiing movies are made of!

There is a unique kind of beauty common to skiing. Glimpsing the countryside from the height of the white mountain perch often brings catharsis and reflection. Being able to rise through the cloud cover of a dismal day and break into the light of sunshine is well, just plain spiritual. It means viewing mountain tops as islands in a sea of clouds all the while knowing that the world down below is still shrouded in the gloom of the overcast day. At a time when the masses experience depression and cabin fever, you are out in the fresh air playing with your friends with the same smile that painted your face in the days of snowmobile suits and snow angels.

Aesthetics aside and the truth be told is that most skiers never realize the confidence and athletic thrill to snow skiing -- the ability to ski all conditions and terrain on the mountain with confidence. Beginner skiers soon become disillusioned saying, "This sport isn't for me." The truth is that skiing is hard and it will take a commitment on your part to learn. In this book, I will show you how to get past those rough spots and make skiing a more enjoyable sport in a short amount of time.

Just think of it, if you could be confidently skiing all the hard runs at any ski resort in the world, how much would it be worth to you? As any ski instructor of the great Western resorts of California, Colorado and Utah can tell you, ski lessons are never less than $65 an hour and it takes about ten hours to get a grasp on the fundamentals necessary to ski the beginner runs...and that doesn't mean you will master them.

Depending on your ability to understand the concept and your ability to make your muscles perform, it could take a few hours or a full day for you to master the beginner skills of stopping, wedging and just making the most basic of direction changes. These skills are unique to the sport and require an understanding of the cause and effects. If you follow the advice of this text, I guarantee you will learn faster and have a better time doing it.

Chapter 1 A Few Options for Learning

In order to reach a competent skill level, you have a few options: go to a highly trained and experienced ski instructor and throw lots of money at him; make him take you through every situation and learn his secrets. Secondly, you could, on your own, learn the basic movement patterns that work throughout all levels of skiing.

When you choose the lesson...and you will, arrive with a specific set of questions. From, "Why can't I do it?" To, "Then what I do?" Very often, ski instructors can bring a person who has never skied before to the level of a three year veteran in a few hours. These instances are rare, but don't under estimate the powers of a trained instructor--he's considered a professional for a reason.

When you hire your instructor, just remember to get a level 3 PSIA instructor.

The South Americans have a very good method for picking their ski teachers. They will hire the fastest skier on the ski school staff. When I taught down in Portillo, Chile, the resort held weekly NASTAR style ski races. I was surprised that these races determine how successful you will be in getting private lessons.

The South Americans when signing up for their lesson simply ask who won the ski race last week and then request that instructor. The reasoning is sound: The best skiers win ski races. And after all, don't you want an instructor who not only tells you what works but also practices what he preaches? By the way, I made alot of money that season :)

Chapter 2 Natural Talent Makes a Quick Study Skiing, like most sports, is an athletic endeavor easily mastered by those gifted individuals who are, "naturally inclined." It happens every day at ski areas across the world: a person comes to a first time lesson and within minutes is speeding down the beginner slope making rudimentary turns like some newborn gazelle, fast and excitable, yet unsure and wobbly. There is no better student than the one who doesn't have any fear and does everything the first time when asked. Unfortunately, most people are not like that, but given a little time and patience, almost anyone can be a great skier.

Chapter 3 Roller Blade or Skate? Skiing will be Easy The fastest learners are always those who have learned the gliding movement patterns found in other sports: like rollerblading or ice skating. Children also learn easily. Maybe they know they have less distance to fall, or maybe they're just fearless.

Chapter 4 The First Day Skiing is a personally challenging sport. It doesn't matter if you don't know what ski goes on what foot. Nobody does on the first day. The skis will go on either foot. It doesn't matter. Also try to make your boots fit better. Don't wear more than one pair of socks, and if your footsies are prone to cold, get some good smartwool socks. The most imporant thing--pick a flat run. I mean the flattest bunny hill you can find. Believe me, you will need to take it slow at first. I've seen to many people give it up for good after being scared on the first day. Don't let this happen to you. We've already mentioned the social aspects of skiing -- meeting athletic healthy minded people who like to have fun in life, not to mention the fact that skiing is not a poor man's sport (the caliber of enthusiast is usually greater than that of the average ice fishing or beer guzzling sportsman). On the first outing, remember that skiing is a fun sport. If you are not having a good time try some other aspect of the sport -- the bar is always fun (here nobody knows how good of a skier you are).

Chapter 5 Trail Markings: Ability Level Signs While it's true that skiing down black diamond rated expert terrain takes years of diligent practice, anyone can find excitement from the very first day. Every ski resort in the world has a skill level rating system for each run that is clearly marked on the top of the trail. Green runs are the easiest (skiable after only one or two days). Blue runs are rated intermediate (some can be difficult if a lack of snow grooming has left moguls to contend with), and black runs are hard ranging from smooth groomed conditions to moguls. The double black diamond runs are the hardest, the signs at the runs entrance usually give indication as to their difficulty by being marked with a skull and crossbones or the words 'super experts only'.

Book One

The Beginner

Introduction

Every person who struggles to learn a new sport has to accept the guidance of an established professional. This section will give you a leg up on the tactics used by teaching professionals.

Chapter 1 Equipment: What you need as a beginner What makes one piece of gear better from another? Well, this answer is not so easily answered. Their are pros and cons about any product, but remember this, all the top companies have a complete line of gear (ski, boots, poles and bindings) making your choices easy: pick a matched set. Just look at the competitors at the world cup level, they all ski for one company or another, and the racers are all competitive. It doesn't matter what company's product you buy. They are all good, but some are a little better than others. The big companies who have the lions share of the market like Rossignol and Salomon, are good choices because they have tested and proved their product by winning on the world cup.

For your needs as a beginner, try to stay with one company and buy all the gear together. The rationale goes like this: the gear of one company has been tested to work together, and you can count on one stop calling if you have any problems. You will need: skis, boots, bindings and poles.

How to pick the right length ski The difference between the really expensive skis on the market and the middle of the road skis is so little only the expert could tell the difference. The biggest consideration when buying or renting, is to find a ski that is the right size and has the right flex for its application. You could refer to any sizing chart at any ski shop to find your desired length, but just remember these simple rules: the skis should be shoulder height if you are a beginner and one to two inches above the head if you are an intermediate to.

The more expensive the ski the stiffer it is. This is not to say that stiffer is better. Stiff skis are harder to turn. They demand that the skier is perfectly balanced all the time. The payoff to the experienced skier is that the ski feels zippier when turned correctly. If an inexperienced skier tries to turn a stiff ski while being off balance if only just a little, the ski will not initiate the turn and certainly make for a frustrating experience. It is best for the beginner and intermediate to accept their status and purchase a ski that is softer (any beginner or mid-line ski) and easy to ski. By the time you will be able to ski with strong balance, your learning skis will be worn out (two to three years).

Parabolics as a beginner ski? A word here about the radical sidecut skis or Parabolics as they are called. They are great and should be used by the beginner and intermediate who wants to learn. Just remember, any ski can be made to perform like a high performance ski, if it is correctly sharpened and waxed (see the section of ski tuning).

How to pick the right length pole Pole sizing is relatively easy. Just hold the pole upside down by gripping it just under the round basket while resting the handle on the floor by your feet. If your arm extends out at a 90 degree angle from your body with your elbow by your side, you have the right length pole. There are many brands and kinds of poles. Don't even think about it--poles break often get what you can afford to replace.

Chapter 2 How to Buy Good Gear Cheap The ski swap The cheapest way to get good equipment is at the local ski swap. Usually in the fall, equipment is gathered from ski clubs local enthusiasts and local junior racing programs and sold inexpensively. A portion of the money goes toward a charity like the local junior racing program. Just go to your local ski area in October and ask about a ski swap. Chances are somebody will have the information. It is amazing at some of the deals you can find. It's normal to find last year's skis with bindings for less than 1/5 of their original cost. Along with hard goods like skis, boots and bindings, you will find soft goods like jackets, gloves and accessories.

Year-end sales The year end sales in the spring are another good way to purchase gear. Shop owners are forced to sell their remaining stock at cost: no consumer will buy last years stock for full price. Often you will find brand new gear at up to fifty percent off the retail. This spring and summer pricing is a good bet, but remember it is last year's stuff with last year's graphics, colors and technology. For all goods, these tent sales, liquidations and closeouts are the best deal. Always try to get there on the first day. The merchandise is limited and the common sizes sell out fast.

Buying the ski pro's gear Ski teachers and ski patrol get their gear for half price, so if you know somebody, they will always sell last year's gear for cheap in order to get the latest model. Be forewarned, this group only buys the high end ski which is pricey to start and often very stiff in their flex pattern (not the best beginner ski).

Chapter 3 Unsure if You'll Like Skiing? Rent the Gear Equipment is one of the most important parts to courting success. If you rent, you can be sure you're experience will be good, but less than perfect, unless you take a few precautions. There are too many factors that can go wrong. The boots could not fit right, the skis could be tuned (waxed and sharpened) less than adequate and the whole experience could possibly be a lot of work.

Always remember when renting:

Renting is a good way to get by if you are either just trying out the sport or your travel plans prohibit taking your own equipment. The basics you'll need are skis, boots, poles. The gear will usually be rented together as a package or individually if needed. All you need to do is tell the shop attendant that you need the works, and presto, it's that easy. Don't worry about the size of the skis. The shop person has a chart that will give you the right length. For liability he has to recommend a certain ski, but if you want another type or size ski, just ask. The shop person will ask some questions about your experience. Just answer them truthfully and without shame -- everyone has to be a beginner once. The shop technicians are usually reliable for getting the right equipment to the customer, but use your common sense. If he hands you a pair of skis a foot over your head and you've never skied before, it might be wise to ask for a shorter pair.

A word of advice, if you are only going to be an occasional weekend warrior with less than 10 days a year, don't bother to buy. Current high performance packages can be rented from your local ski shop allowing you to use the latest technology without having to buy.

Chapter 4 Buying Boots If you buy your own equipment, the boots should be the first and foremost consideration. If your feet hurt, you will not ski. It's as simple as that. It doesn't matter which brand or style of boot you buy initially. They all can be custom formed to your feet, and the fit will be more like your bedroom slippers than a ten pound plastic shoe. Spend the extra cash on the boots. Your feet will thank you later.

Remember, the beginner equipment is designed for minimalist needs. The gear will get you into the sport, but will compromise on comfort, and your ability to progress quickly to the higher skill levels will be slowed. The boots for beginners are traditionally soft, but they still do not have the comfort built into the performance boots. Beginner boots, because of their pliability, lose some of the feel between the shoe and the ski. A stiff boot will make the ski react exactly as the foot is moved, while the beginner boot allows some forgiveness. If the foot is moved to much during the turn, the ski will be overturned while using a stiffer boot. Beginner boots are designed for convenience and should be used by beginners.

The plastic shell of the rear entry model is hinged in the back allowing the foot easy entry into the mold. While this convenience is appreciated, the design makes a person's ankle position to be nearly immobile (The ankle must be flexed forward to effectively steer the front of the skis into a turn).

The best advice to any serious want-to-be skier is to go down to the local ski shop and buy an intermediate overlap style boot. This boot is soft enough for the beginner, but it will be useful as you progress to the intermediate levels in the first few years. Also the mid-line or intermediate boot will be more comfortable than the cheapest boots. The skis can be rented every time, but the boots should be purchased and custom fit.

Boots: Choosing the Right Kind Ski boots are the single most important part of your skiing gear. They are your link to the snow and will give you all the feeling necessary to make great turns. They can also dampen your sensitivity enough (if they are not fitted correctly) so you will not be able to quickly and precisely turn the skis.

The only boot to consider is the overlap design boot if you eventually want to cruise like an expert. This boot starts you off in a forward position, which is essential for manipulating the front of the ski and making smooth entries into each turn. The problem with most beginner and intermediate skiers is that they cannot find balance while in motion. Until the basic human need of safety and control is achieved (through balance), the subtle nuances of upper level movement are lost.

The Boot Affects the Way You Ski Here is the rule: A forward balanced position must be achieved by constantly pressuring the front boot cuff with the shin. In order to get this pressure, the ankle must be flexed so pressure can be transferred to the front of the ski for steering. The problem encountered with rear entry and mid entry boots (two other choices to consider when buying) is a lack of forward pressure.

Many of these intermediate boots offer easy entry and comfortable fit, but they also put the heel lower than the toes in the boot. This makes you start out with a flexed ankle -- often to the end of the persons range of motion. Thus, when the time comes for you to pressure the front of the ski by flexing forward, you can't (your physically limited by the boot). In these instances, the answer can lie in a heel lift, if the boot has room. If not, you are doomed to a sit-back position giving little control over the shovel of the ski.

The heel lift can correct the foot position and allow you to gain the extra forward leverage -- important for a stronger turning ability. In addition to the heel lift, a footbed can give an amazing amount of comfort and control. All expert skiers swear by footbeds.

The Secret of Comfortable Boots--Footbeds The platform directly under the foot is the biggest factor in making a comfortable fit. When a boot is first purchased, it comes with a footbed that will slightly take on the contours of the foot and make a nice fit. The ski boot footbed is much like that of a running shoe's footbed The custom footbeds purchased at ski shops are molded by heat to the foot giving support under every nook and cranny. This extra base of support gives the foot the highest possible amount of sensitivity. Expert skiers know that the factory footbed is not enough support for the foot and eventually makes a foot fatigue and spasm in the boot as the liner material begins to pack down. Because the foot is the first receptor of feeling with the snow, a snug fit all around the foot will save you from cramps. The slightest movement of the foot must transfer directly to the ski to make for a positive connection thus, the boot is the most important piece of your equipment.

The professional boot fitter has a number of footbeds for you to consider when buying. Cork, foam, plastic and simple padding materials are used for footbeds. In considering which to buy, the molded plastic with a padded overlay seems to work the best for the money. It's the cheapest, and works as good as any on the market. The cost for this type of footbed is generally about the same as that for a pair of ski poles. The fitter will make an impression of the foot and cast a footbed (in about an hour) that takes in every contour of your foot. A piece of advice -- get a footbed, then when you buy your next pair of boots, just transfer the footbed.

Chapter 5 Bindings: Don't break your leg The binding is the mechanism that holds your boot to the ski. there are several types available on the market and all having their own pros and cons. The problematic bindings are made of metal with composite accessories. These parts seem to fall off or break with surprising regularity, and even though they will be fixed by the companies, it is a pain to remove the binding and send it back to the company mid-season. Ask the local ski shop tech guys for a good binding. They will usually know the problem models out that season. Just an observation, the guys at the big chain shops sell bikes one day and skis the next. Chances are, they don't know any more about skis and binding htan you do. Go to the small specialty shops. The next consideration: make sure your binding has the right DIN settings for your weight. DIN stands for Deuche International Number, a standard for ski bindings. It indicates the amount of torque necessary to release from the binding. This setting is crucially important. As a beginner, you will have all types of falls, from twisting, knee wrenching falls to hamstring stretching forward crashes. The DIN setting on your binding should always be professionally set. It will save an injury. If you are a heavyweight or an expert, make sure the DIN goes high enough. The pros use a DIN range of 14-24.

Chapter 6 Skis: They do wear out Unless you are an accomplished skier, you will hardly be able to tell the difference between a lively new ski and an old worn in ski. It takes about 100 days on a pair of skis before they lose their camber and straighten out (commonly referred to as a dead ski). The camber can be judged by placing them together by the bases. When you squeeze the midsections together, the skis want to spring away. This is camber. Camber is much like a hunter's bow. If you pull the bow back, it will spring forward with force. The ski works on the same principal. If you put the ski on the snow by itself, the tips and the tails will touch the ground and the middle will be in the air. When you pressure the ski during a turn, the ski acts like a bow, loading up with stored force and shooting you into the new turn when the pressure is released. This effect is called rebound. When the ski is used a lot the ski loses its ability to rebound and becomes dead.

Beginner skis typically have little spring to start with, so the only visible sign of wear is from contact with rocks and the other ski. The difference between a lively ski and a dead ski can only be felt by a skier who knows how's to pressure the ski.

The second way a ski requires replacement is if the bottoms become badly damaged. Rocks often cause long gouges in the the soft base material which require filling with a P-tex candle (refer to the tuning and repair section). If the gouges are exceptionally deep and along the metal edge, the base will need to be professionally fixed. very rarely will the ski need to be replaced. The best ski shops employ technicians who are more like surgeons able to repair everything but the most extreme damage e.g. broken skis.

Chapter 7 Clothing: Staying Warm and Dry Dress comfortably and wisely A word of advice for the beginner before the first outing -- clothing makes the person. Wear clothes that waterproof. You are going to spend a little time on the ground, and it's not very dry. And, if it's going to be snowing, you need goggles. Inversely, if it's sunny, bring your "slick-daddy" sunglasses. Consider wearing some long johns that are made from materials that wick perspiration away from the skin. If you get wet and cold, it's the double wammy -- you'll be in the lounge, disgusted and done for the day.

Ski clothing is a work of technological wonder. Every year manufactures come out with better fabrics and color schemes. The one important thing to consider when purchasing is weatherability. Look for fabrics that breathe, yet won't allow the perspiration to stay on the skin. A good polypropylene undergarment should be the first consideration, while the outer garments should be lightweight so you can layer additional clothing if needed. If it's hot out, you can simply take off the under layering sweater and the outer shell will be enough. But inversely, if it's cold, the adding of undergarments can give the needed warmth.

Look for ski specific clothing like the ones found in the ski shop. Yes, they cost a lot, but the functionality of the clothing will insure your warmth all day. You could go the route of non-brand names, but make sure the clothing is breathable. Most of the cheaper winter clothing on the market is made of waterproof material that will act like a weight-reduction rubber sweat suit making you break into an immediate sweat. That sweat will make the body cold and damp thereby effectively ruining your ski day.

Socks should be warm, but not thick and heavy. You don't want to add to much bulk and cut out the sensitivity of the feet. Consider this: ski racers wear only very thin socks, so they can feel the snow/ski reactions. Many of the better brand socks are made of polypropylene and keep the foot warm while keeping sensitivity high.

Pants should not be tucked into the boot. Remember, the shin needs to be pushed against the cuff of the boot for control, and if the pant leg is bunched into the boot, the result will be pain. Look for pants that have an internal powder cuff that can be velcrowed or snapped shut around the ankle sealing the snow out.

Chapter 8 Ski Etiquette The ski resort, much like a golf resort or ocean-side resort is dependent upon the participants abiding by established points of etiquette. Newcomers should be aware that breaking from the established norms is not the way to gain acceptance into the subculture.

Consider the case of the beginner who came to your first class with your goggles (obviously fresh out the box, because the sticker was still on the lens) upside down on his head. At the time, the group of instructors waiting for their class assignments gave a snicker under their breath. Don't fall into the pretentious beginner category.

Another example is the guy whose narcissistic nature couldn't be restrained as he took off his shirt in the midday sun adding to his tropical look of flower printed shorts. Although skiing with a T-shirt on the hot days is acceptable, a long sleeved shirt is always the norm. In case of a fall, the snow won't give you a road rash. Even as an expert, shorts and short sleeved shirts are not worn.

Remember the old saying, "clothing makes the man?" Well, this could be seen as a good guide in the social world of skiing. It is such a festive occasion, at times, that the right clothing could mean the difference between meeting people during your outings and being the one snickered at. If you don't care, the snowmobile suit, jeans and leather jacket will work fine and give the die-hard enthusiasts a smile during their day. The golden rule as a novice skier: watch and learn.

Chapter 9 Getting Going: Your First Time Try to ski in your back yard Get used to the fact that you have, what basically comes down to, five foot slabs attached to your feet. Ease of mobility, often taken for granted when moving around on foot, can't be done so easily on skis. The most common mistake is stepping across the front of a ski like you would with hockey skates. You might remember this image if you have ever watch a Warren Miller ski movie. The beginners are shown getting off the beginner-run chairlift, but they try to walk away from the lift instead of ski. The result is the same. It's like stepping on your shoelace--you end up on the ground. For Miller, it makes for an entertaining movie, but at the expense of others. Don't let this be you. Here is one of the basic truths you would learn the hard way almost immediately when donning your skis for the first time; even though you're stopped, the skis will slide, sometimes forward, sometimes back. You must always be standing with your skis facing across the hill -- never point the tips or tails down or you'll slide there. Often beginners do the splits as the skis diverge away from one another. Use your poles to stop yourself on the flats.

The best thing to do is get your equipment, put it on and go slide around the back yard (if it's fairly flat, you don't want a hill at first). If you were to take a beginning lesson, the instructor will make you walk around on the flat section of the bunny hill for a good fifteen minutes before letting you even try to slide down the hill. Get this out of the way before you go to the ski area.

Try to move around with the skis as much as possible. Learn how to step one ski, then the next, when turning around without sliding. Always use your poles as helpers. Try to turn around in a circle without moving forward or backward. This will get you accustomed to working your feet separately.

Feel how the skis and boots support your weight when you lean forward and backward. You'll find you can lean way out over your toes like Superman in flight. The skis are designed for this. In the coming learning sessions, you will learn how to lean slightly forward all the time.

Chapter 10 The Beginners Quest: Where's the best ski area to start learning? Since you have start out on the "bunny hill" anywhere you learn, it is best to learn where the hills are flat and the lift ticket prices are low. You may be coming back to this hill more often than you think, and paying the steep lift ticket prices of the world class resorts and only using the bunny hill would be like buying an expensive bottle of wine only to smell the cork. The typical beginner hill is usually serviced by a easily learned lift and is no steeper than a hill on which you would go no faster than five miles per hour if you rode a bike straight down. The length of the run can be anywhere from a hundred feet and as much wide to the optimal which would be wide open in every direction. Look for the hill that has a lot of space. You'll need it. Your skis will not always go where you want them to.

In the Midwest, any hill is a good choice for learning, but take Indianhead for an example of a learning environment. The Mighty Mite beginner area at Indianhead is a small 1/2 acre fenced in slope that's more flat than slope. The area has a "Mighty Mite" lift which is a modified rope tow with handles. Here the beginner learns to walk around and begin sliding. The comfort ability zone on skis is expanded and nurtured in this area. You learn to make your first stops and turns here. After getting the hang of it, so to speak, you will be taken over to the next beginner hill which is the same thing only longer and a little steeper. Here, you could get going 15 M.P.H. or so if you went straight down. this is where you will be made as a skier. Most people take to skiing very quickly and after a few runs here want to try the regular runs. The regular runs aren't much harder, but you better know instinctively how to stop, turn and slow yourself down before trying these hills. Once you get to these regular hills, often classified as green and blue runs, you will join the ranks of the skiing community.

Before you put on your skis First, make sure you have your boots on the right feet: the buckles go on the outside. Zip up all your pockets (so you don't lose your cash). Take goggles if the wear is cold or snowy. The goggles will make a warm air pocket around your face, while a neck gator or turtleneck can cover the other exposed areas. Make sure you judge the weather correctly, it can get cold, and on the hill time is money. If you are taking a lesson, and have to go in to put on more clothes, you could miss some important pointers. Learning is fast when you're a beginner. You will learn how to ski within a couple of hours, so be prepared to spend some time outside without a break.

Chapter 11 How to Get Up the Hill: Types of Ski Lifts The lifts on the beginner hill can be one of a few. The rope tow is an old stand-by with which most people are familiar. It's usually found at smaller areas and is the most common beginner lift found in the Midwest. A word of caution, if you have loose clothing like a scarf or other clothing, it can get tangled in the rope and drag you into the pulley--don't let this happen to you like it has to many others. Because of the safety problems, the rope tow has been phase out at many resorts. The rope tow technique is simple enough. You simply grab on, letting the rope slide through your hands a little at the beginning so you don't get jerked forward. Be forewarned, the rope tow wears out gloves very quickly.

The Poma, which consists of a four inch disk attached at the bottom of a spring loaded pole and propelled by a raised cable, is placed under your butt, and while you stand, it pulls you up the run. This system is good, but most people will fall because they try to use the disk as a seat. If you sit down, you will end up on the ground. Let it pull you while you stand and ski uphill. There are tracks in the snow, and you just have to follow them to the top. At the top, there will be a getting off point where you will automatically stop.

Another type you could encounter is the Mighty Might. As the name implies, this contraption is made by clamping a handle on slow rope tow. When you grab on to this one, you don't have the luxury of letting the rope slide through, so be prepared for the jerk. The secret is to crouch down a little. It softens the sudden tug.

In some instances, the chairlift will be the only way to get back up the beginner hill, The chairlift is the easiest to use. There will be some type of marker at the end of the lift line just before you get on the chair. It's usually a red colored board flush with the surface of the snow upon which you will stand. This is where you wait until the chair comes around the bowwheel (the bottom pulley on the cable system) then just follow it out to the next marker, usually ten feet or so in the path of the next chair. A lift attendant will be standing near the marker and will 'bump' the chair or hold it for a second while you sit, then away you go.

Chapter 12 On the Bunny Hill: Your First Time Try to figure out how to get up the hill without the lift. You can't just walk up it, or you'll slide backwards. You have to side step or herringbone up. The sidestep is when you walk up one ski at a time always facing across the hill. The herringbone is when you walk straight up the hill but the skis make a V with the tails together. When sidestepping, you will find that the edges have to be set into the snow so you don't slide sideways. All these little tips are the first steps taken by ski instructors when getting you accustomed to standing and walking with skis. Next, the instructor will make you slide down a small hill for 20 feet or so barely moving. Taking things slowly in the beginning is the secret to learning.

The snowplow or wedge: how to stop Next, you will learn how to make a wedge shape with the tips of the skis together and the tails apart. This is how you stop and control your speed. The wider the tails are spread the slower you will go. The tips, however, are always kept at about two inches apart. Sometimes they will touch, and sometimes they will go much wider. If this happens, don't worry, just try to get them back together. Control comes from being able to keep them near the optimal position.

You should try to keep your weight evenly distributed between the two skis, that is if you were to draw a line from the center of your body, it would hit exactly between the skis. This position will keep the skis going straight in the wedge position. It is this wedge that will allow you to control your speed and make your first turns. Get used to the feeling of sliding along in the wedge. The skis should feel like they are skidding on the inside edges. If you are in a proper wedge, the skis should be resting more on the inside edge than the outside edge. Don't try to overdo it. The body should be kept in a position like that of walking. Don't crouch or stoop over, even though you will want to. Just try to control the skis speed by making a bigger or smaller wedge. Remember, bigger means slower and smaller means faster.

I don't know how many times I've seen a person panic and let the skis naturally go parallel and thus lose their stopping power. The person forgets the instruction and starts heading for the parking lot unable to stop. Don't let the speed get away from you. Go slow in the beginning.

Turning in the wedge

To make a turn in the wedge, just put a little more pressure on the outside ski while twisting both skis in the intended direction. You must be able to feel the skis slide sideways a little, or brush across the snow. While turning, try to keep the body upright, hands out in front like your holding a tray, and don't use your poles to assist in turning.

There are three things that have to happen to make a good wedge turn. First, the tips have to be together. Second, the outside ski has to have more weight on it than the inside ski. Third, you must steer both skis in the direction of the turn. The biggest problem encountered is when skiers put to much angle on the skis. The skis should only slightly be angled on the inside edges. If they are more, the ski will not slide sideways. It will want to track in a straight line. If you stand tall, the skis will be on the right angle. Until you can make turns both right and left in the wedge, don't even try to ski with your skis together or parallel. The wedge is the first step to skiing, and there is no way around it. You must learn how to do it well, before going any farther in skiing.

Chapter 13 Balance: The Most Important Skill

Drills for learning balance There are many drills that heighten a sense of balance. The best drills allow for independent foot action. The following are drills used by instructors to develop the basic fundamentals of skiing.

Make sure the end of the practice area is pitched back uphill so you can stop by either using the wedge or using the uphill slope to kill the speed naturally. Try sliding for ten feet in a parallel ski position on flat terrain barely moving. Try to rock back and forth on the skis so you feel out of balance, either too far forward or too far back. You will find the perfect balance point is standing directly on top of the skis with the shins pushing against the front of the boot. Go back up, and try to pick up one ski and balance while slowly moving. Once you can do it for more than a second or two, try the other one.

Try hopping on one ski, then both skis, while sliding. Make the hops slow and deliberate. Go from right to left and left to right. the hop, at first, doesn't have to be anything more than a simple weight shift, but as you learn control and confidence, make bigger hops. Try to work the skis into the wedge, and maintain the wedge, while sliding.

Chapter 14 Beginner Techniques: Overview Stance is directly related to how fast you will learn the sport of skiing. If you have a narrow base of support, balance will be difficult to maintain, and thereby making the learning process slow and agonizing. The correct stance should be hip width with the feet. Think of the basketball and hockey play, they all have a hip width stance -- it makes for strong balance.

Ankles should be flexed and pushing against the front of the boot cuff. This pressure is what gives you the ability to maneuver the skis. The beginner's mistake in 90% of all lessons is that he reels back from the fear of going to fast, and he loses any ability to turn the skis and slow himself down. Most beginners safety reaction to fear (the shifting of your weight to the heels) becomes a hindrance. The best way to overcome this problem is just to be aggressive and always be driving the shins into the boot cuff.

The knees should be bent slightly. Think of them as shock absorbers. Keep your knees bent and allow movement both up and down. This will give you the ability to absorb any bumps. After all, if you hit a bump and don't absorb it, you'll launch into the air, and in the air, balance is easily lost.

The hips should be centered over the feet, and like the ankles, they always should be more forward than back to facilitate turning. Further, try to keep the hips somewhat facing down the hill when making a turn. Don't let them get twisted into facing up the hill. This will take all the efficiency out of your turns, and it is the number one problem among novice skiers.

The hand position is possibly the most important thing for gaining a forward balanced position. If you keep you hands forward, like holding a tray of food, or even further forward than that, the body will be naturally drawn into the desired position. Further, as with the hips, keep the hands slightly favored toward the downhill side. The rule: hold them out in front and keep them there!

Pole usage and knowing exactly how to use them seems to be a mystery to many students at all levels. At first, the poles are used to push yourself around on the flats. But as you progress, you will rely more and more on the pole for subtle balance adjustments. First, starting with the grip -- get the poles with the straps. The old pistol grip is great for convenience, but ask yourself how many pros do you see with that grip? None. The strap gives you added power when used correctly. The hand goes up through the strap and grabs onto the pole and strap. This way, even if you let go of the pole, the strap will still give you support when you push down.

The shoulders should be held level to the horizon. Don't let them dip or get twisted around. As with the hips, the shoulders should always be facing somewhat down the hill, even when turning. Think of the twist as a separation between the lower and upper body. Even though the legs and skis are going one way, the upper body is always favoring the downhill side. think of the skis as the headlights on your car. As you turn the wheel (your skis), the lights (your shoulders) still face in the direction of travel. As you straighten the wheels of the car out, the headlights realign.

The head should be held much the same as the hips, hands and shoulders -- favoring the downhill side. If you keep yourself looking down the hill, the rest of the upper body will follow.

Chapter 15 Need More Help? The Beginner Ski Lesson When the season starts, go to the ski school and try to get into one of the beginner lessons packages, these usually are offered in the beginning of the season and are multi-day lessons -- this is your best value. Skiing is a slow process and you will need much help in understanding the relationships between your balance and how the skis react.

There are many reasons for getting a lesson. Maybe you need someone to be supportive. Maybe you need someone to demonstrate. Or maybe you just like someone to talk to during your adventure. Whatever the reason, a ski instructor will make you skiing experience more enjoyable. The thing to remember: you already know how to ski from the previous chapters--you just need practice.

From lessons to green runs in three days You will quickly progress and master the bunny hill, usually in the first day. After you take your 3rd lesson in as many days, you will be skiing down any green designated runs (these are the beginner runs). By looking on the ski area map, you will be able to ski any of the green marked runs, as they are all the same in difficulty level. Take a few days to yourself and have some fun just skiing. Just remember what your ski teacher said about stance and body position (It's absolutely critical for advancement in skiing to get a strong sense of balance by standing hip width apart with the feet).

Once you have had a couple days on your own, now it's time to get into the intermediate lesson. Just be sure you have everything mastered from the beginner lessons. If you don't, you will spend your time going over the skills you should of learned in the previous lesson.

The intermediate lesson is the cornerstone to successful skiing. You will reach this stage by your eighth ski day. The recipe for success is simple, if you keep the weight forward and listen to the instructor when he gives you individual critiquing you will advance quickly. Take a couple of lessons back to back. If you like the instructor, take him again. If you don't, there are many qualified instructors on staff, find one you like. Again take a few days to practice after a lesson. You must reinforce the skills learned in the lessons, before trying anything new.

Book Two

The Intermediate Introduction This section is designed for the intermediate skier who needs to get past the plateaus that make skiing a labor instead of delight. Introduced here are the methods by which instructors develop skills in their clients.

Skiing is an adrenaline sport, which fills the participant with the beautifully liberating drug anytime personal danger is perceived. If you are going down an easy slope at 10 m.p.h. and don't have the control to stop, your body will sense danger and release the chemical. That's the beauty of the sport; everyone can experience the adrenaline rush regardless of the skill level. The expert only gets the rush from an impressive cliff jump, for the beginner, it starts on the green slope. This is what makes the sport so attractive: its ability to naturally dope every person who puts on a pair of skis on any given day. The cliff jumpers of TV are the junkies who can't get the buzz by gliding down the groomed runs, they risk injury to feel alive.

Chapter 1 Skiing's History: Old vs. New Skiing first originated in Sweden or at least that is the common knowledge. The Swedes used skiing as a form of travel as well as adventure. The first ski was found in a pete bog in Norway almost 4,000 years ago, proving skiing to be a useful as well as exciting sport. The use of this sport which was first developed by the Norwegians has come a long way since it was used for hunting and warring against neighboring tribes.

Old school In the 1850's skiing went from a free heel design of touring ski to the fixed heel. this innovation allowed skiers more control on the steeps, but also limited the walking ability on the flats. The Austrians first figured that it could be fun to just ski down the mountain slopes and developed the first ski lifts. The skis they used were little more than shaped wooden slabs secured to the foot with leather straps.

New school Today, the high tech equipment can deliver the same control to the driver as a finely tuned race car, and just like the race car, the more the machine is tuned up the better the performance. Kevlar, high density plastics, impact resistant or "sintered" bases and every possible configuration are some basics for ski design these days. You will have to learn the difference between a good ski for a beginner or intermediate and how to maintain it, but don't despair it really is quite easy (more on ski tuning and equipment in each book).

Chapter 2

Ski Teaching History

Contemporary ski teaching philosophy Ski teachers of today stress success and are trained to be patient with students. Teachers take a holistic, student-centered approach. Student backgrounds such as past experiences with sports and natural abilities are taken into account before selecting the lesson plan. The new approach works quite well as the flexible strategy can be applied with success to the slow learning, non-athletic beginner, or the fast paced professional athlete. Instructors today try to open their client's eyes to nature's beauty while getting exercise and recreation. Further, skiing usually takes place in a social setting and this includes the ski lesson. The most common lesson is the group beginner lesson. Here, as many as 14 people are stepping into skis for the first time. Instructors teaching these lessons should be aware of the anxiety associated with group dynamics in the initial bonding stage. The beginning of the lesson is the time for jocularity and name exchanges. These simple preliminaries seem almost magically to wipe away all shyness and pave the way for a positive learning environment.

The sport of skiing is looked upon today by instructors as a gift that can be given to sport-minded people, much as kernel of wisdom can be handed down from a paternal educator. This gift is invaluable as it can be a way to reduce stress, always bring a smile and break the ice in a social setting. There are many factors the teachers of today interpret before deciding on the best approach. If your instructor is really good he will have spoken a few words with each person in the group and decided the appropriate lesson format in the the first five minutes before the class starts. Todays teachers are decidedly holistic in their approach to ski teaching.

Practice makes perfect It is every ski instructor's dream to bring their own excitement into the heart of their client. If your motivation to learn skiing is strong and you've already tasted the thrill of skiing as a beginner, you will easily advance every day while on the mountain. The key word here is "on the mountain." If you don't make an effort to get on the hill as much as possible, expect the fate of most skiers -- terminal intermediate abilities. This prognosis is fairly good because it will allow you to be equally matched with your peers and be able to enjoy a socially filled skiing lifestyle. The downside, of course, is that you will never be able to ski with the big boys who head immediately for the black diamonds (the runs rated for experts only). Also, you probably will never understand the saying, "there are no friends on a powder day." The only way to get really good is take lessons, voraciously read how-to books and the most important -- ski at least 20 days a year.

Tell the instructor your background and expectations This holistic approach makes ski teachers take into account the student's history, natural talent, learning styles and motivation. If the instructor can keep this student centered approach and not just focus on the hard skills of physically learning the moves, he will be able to keep the student more interested in skiing -- possibly for a lifetime. This is how the best ski teachers think. If you can assist him by giving him the necessary information up front, he can quickly and accurately determine the best lesson for you.

Give him information like your skiing background: how many times you've gone, how many other sports you enjoy and what you expect from the lesson. These three simple pieces of information will insure the instructor understands where you are coming from and where you want to go.

Chapter 3 Contemporary ski designs Today there are so many ski manufacturers, that the development of each prototype ski is more like a work of art than a functional way to slide down the mountain. Skis are laminated with layer upon layer of foam, wood, metal and kevlar. These materials make the skis stiff in the spots that support you and softer in the places where the ski needs to bend in order to lay an arced track and turn (the perfect turn). Every year, ski companies come out with new designs functioning better than the previous years. Think of the development like this, if you, as an expert skier, with top-of-the-line gear could go back in time to the 1960's, you could easily become an Olympic champion.

Chapter 4 Custom Boot Stretching: Feet still hurt? customize the shell Not only do the footbeds make a difference, but the actual shape of the boot can be modified to give a comfortable fit. New skiers always complain about boot fit. They always talk about tight spots or places in the boot where the foot rubs creating a "hot spot" (this is where blisters form). Once again, the way to make a perfect fit right out of the box is to get the boot professionally fit.

Once the boots have been worn three or four times skiing, the liners pack out and conforms to the contours of the foot and lower leg. This is why boots are purchased one-half size under the normal street shoe size. Accomplished skiers know the first few days on the new boots will be uncomfortable, so they have learned to endure the pressure, and you will too. If the boot persists to cause tight spots after the initial three day break-in period, take the boot to a professional boot fitter. The fitter can warm the hard plastic shell and expand it at the tight spots with the use of a hydraulic stretcher making those uncomfortable spots disappear. Once the boot is stretched, it usually will revert back to the original shape after a couple months, making another stretching necessary. It's a fairly quick process and takes about an hour. Make sure you are there when the stretching is done. Immediately after it's done, you should be able to put on the boot and feel the difference. If not, make him stretch it again. The best stretching process uses a heat gun to get the plastic pliable. Some shops use a hot water pot, which protects from the possibility of overheating and damaging the boot, but this method sometimes doesn't get the plastic hot enough, so the stretch doesn't take.

Chapter 5 Specialty Skis: Super Sidecut and Fatboy The trend in today's ski manufacturing industry has focused on the shape of the ski. The super sidecut skis allow the intermediate skier to make good carved turns, and the fatboy ski gives more surface area for gliding through the deep and heavy powder. The super side cut ski is shaped like an hour glass, and the fatboy ski is almost twice as wide as traditional skis.

According to a survey done at the Heavenly ski school in California (which employs 250 ski instructors), It is commonly felt that only 10% of all skiers make consistent carved turns when skiing. The new super side cut skis will enable you to feel the sensation of carving before they reach the expert level. The new technology is a boon for the skier. Give it a try. The performance skis of today have a deeper side cut, which means they have a wider tip and tail section combined with a narrow waist. The new design allows you to make the ski turn just by rolling the foot on its side and thus putting the ski on its side. The edged ski lays an arc type track in the snow, which in ski jargon is called the carve. If we compare the arc of a ski to that of an ice skate as it turns and follows the rounded end of the rink, it lays an arced track much like a ski. This is an important concept to visualize and feel, because anything less is only a skidded intermediate turn.

The super sidecut ski has an extremely fat tip and tail. The ski enables the intermediate skier to make an arced turn or carve much earlier in their skiing career. The new skis are designed to make better skilled skiers faster. The goal of using these skis is not to stay on the alternative skis, but to advance to the high-end all-mountain or race skis after mastering the turning mechanics. As in all skiing, the key that unlocks the door to upper level carving is learning that the shovel or front of the ski has to be pressured in order to engage the tip and make the ski bend, and thus, allow the natural design of the ski to lay the arc in the snow. With the advent of these two new ski designs, look for rental and lesson opportunities using the new benefits.

Chapter 6

A Good Instructor:

When she met Jim, he asked her what she wanted to work on. She said she was petrified every time she found herself on an intermediate hill. Jim knew right off that the fear factor needed to be overcome. Jim had to show her how to maintain the control even when the going became steep. Jim took her on the easy slopes first and worked on control techniques by using turn shape to control speed (if you make wider zigzags or turns across the hill, you will go slower). Jim also worked on edging drills to give her added control. Once Sally felt comfortable, Jim took her to a steeper slope where she applied her new found skills and finally found the speed control she was looking for.

Sally is like most skiers because she needed to work on fundamentals on the easy slopes before attempting them on the steeps. Sally had the right idea. She went to the ski school after finding difficulty in her skiing and told the person at the ski school desk exactly what was wrong and what she wanted from her instructor.

Take a lesson from a certified instructor Taking a ski lesson is the fastest way to becoming a great skier. One of the keys to finding a good instructor is simply asking the ski school for a certified ski instructor and explaining the problem. Certified instructors have passed rigorous tests and have been deemed gurus by their peers. This is an important point as many instructors are only high level intermediate skiers themselves. Try to match your personality to that of the instructor. Most big name ski schools have hundreds of instructors and matching personality types could mean the difference between a great lesson and an average lesson. Simply ask the counter person at the ski school desk for the kind of person you would most enjoy as an instructor. Remember, they can only go by what you tell them.

Chapter 7 The Case of Backseat Bill: The intermediate's breakthrough Last year, Bill showed up for a two hour private lesson. He had skied and taken lessons at Vail, Breckenridge and Snowbird. He commented that he wanted to work on technique and ways to get more control. Bill skied in a slightly crouched position, balancing on his heels while holding his hands by his side except when he planted the pole.

Although his profile is common, the solution lies in balance. Bill had to get his hands in front and start using a wrist movement instead of the arm movement for the pole plant. Run after run he practiced a consistent forward position of the hands. Nonetheless, Bill kept dropping his hands and thus dropping his balance back over the heels of his feet. If he ever wanted to reach that budding expert level of skiing, he would have to master the arm position. After all, it's simple enough, just hold your hands in front with a slight bend in the elbow.

This forward, no bones style of teaching seems to always work. Tell it like it is - no sugar coatings. Bill commented how his lessons in Vail and other ski areas never really amounted to much and nobody ever emphasized the hand position so clearly.

Bill was happy and returned the next two days. By the last day, Bill had mastered the hands and commented on how it seemed to make his skiing more controlled. It's no wonder Bill found the control he had been searching for. The hand position is directly related to where you stand on the skis. If the hands are forward, the front of the boot is pressured, which transfers the pressure to the front of the skis giving the control necessary to steer them into the turn.

The intermediate phase of skiing is the black hole for most skiers, once you reach this point you might not ever get much better. The intermediate skier always has the same mistakes. Most instructors could close their eyes and tell you exactly what the intermediate skier in their lesson needs to work on and be 95% right.

Don't be like most skiers who generally quit taking lessons once they are able to ski most of the runs -- this is a huge mistake. There are so many subtle genres to skiing, it takes a lifetime to master them all on your own. For example, if you want to ski powder, the technique is totally different than groomed run skiing, and if you ski moguls, it's more like powder skiing, but more emphasis is placed on balancing using the pole. The intermediate level is the best time for skiers to take lessons. Professional ski instructors can demonstrate the techniques used for each situation and coach you into the most efficient methods.

Hand position The position of the arms makes all the difference when it comes to gaining confidence on the slopes. The proper arm position is best taught by focusing on the position of the hands. The hands must be out in front, as if you were carrying a tray of food. The closer you can keep your hands in this position the more balance and control you will find. If the hands are dropped to a position where you could touch your thigh, the weight and balance point of the body will be shifted back off the ball of the foot to the heel, and thus, turning control is lost as the pressure is taken off the front of the ski and steering is lost.

Hand position becomes closely linked to balance as the gradient of the terrain steepens. A forward stance in the steeps is crucial for maintaining control, The front of the ski needs to pressured in order to turn quickly from side to side. If your weight gets shifted to the heel, you will not be able to turn the ski fast enough, and uncontrollable speed will be the result. This is a basic concept, but crucial. If you don't keep your hands up, you will never be a very competent skier.

Chapter 8 Stance and Body Position The optimum skiing stance can only be achieved if the opposing joints on each side of the body (ankles, knees and hips) match the plane of the slope. The shoulder and hands should always be squared and balanced more or less matching the horizon. That's the technical perspective, but if you want the simple nuts and bolts of stance, think of the stance as a powerful position that allows maximum balance, but also can be varied as terrain and conditions demand.

In the bumps and powder, the stance should be narrow so the skis can be used as one platform and all movements should be done simultaneous. In the steeps, the stance should be near hip width and the skis should be worked independently by focusing the weight on the outside carving ski during the turn. As with many aspects of skiing, one rule doesn't work in all situations. The best skiers have to be adaptable so they can change with the many varieties of terrain.

Chapter 9 The Pinch of Separation: Angulation This simple concept will give you perfect alignment every time. It can be demonstrated by standing still on a steep hill while holding a ski pole across the knee caps and then across the hips. Notice how the angle of the pole matches the gradient of the slope. You should always strive to align the angles of the body. This effectively demonstrates a strong skiing position. Further, we need to drop the hip inside or toward the uphill side in order to match the same angle as the knees, but remember, always face the pelvis a little downhill. Instructors always comment that their clients are almost never angulated enough in the hips.

Once you get past the hips, the whole idea changes. The upper body always works independent of the lower body. Try to think of this golden rule: minimize upper body movements and maximize the lower body movements. The upper body should stay upright and perpendicular to the horizon, while the shoulders and hands should be even with the horizon. It is important to understand that the separation of the upper and lower body intersects at the top of the hips and this is where a pinching should be felt as the two parts of the body work independently during the turn. When skiing intermediate terrain, there should be minimal pinch, but more angulation and pinch is needed in steeper and icier terrain. The key is maintaining a straightish upper body, while angulating the lower body. Remember, they should act as two separate entities and as angulation increases, you should feel a definite pinch in the side between the hip bone and the rib cage.

Chapter 10 Flexion and Extension All movements in skiing are progressive. This is what makes good skiers look like they are floating along as soft as an airborne feather. The skier starts out with a tall stance and gracefully moves into an angulated position. The steeper the terrain the more the body must be angulated to match the gradient. Think of every turn as a separate starting point. The skier must start out tall and gradually angulate the body as the forces of gravity and centrifical force act on the body. The angulated position seems to an observer as if you are lowering yourself.

The tall stance is called the extension phase of the turn. It is during this phase that the body is straightened while initiating the next turn. It is important to understand that the body has to be straightened at the beginning of every turn. It is at the top of the extension that the wrist can bring the pole forward for the touch. As the body starts to sink down for the flexion, the pole moves back with the turn.

While into the first 20% of the turn, the body should start to flex forward, by bending the ankles and knees and dropping the hips into the hill all the while keeping a downward intention (open the hip to the downhill side). The pole touch is directly linked with the flexion and extension. As the body is flexed the pole can't come forward without raising the arm position, but as the body straightens, the pole can come forward with a slight movement of the wrist.

The softer the movements are made to look, the better you are perceived to be. A good smooth looking turn is light on the edges and soft with the pole touch. These movements will make a picture perfect turn and make the turn efficient and fast if taken into the race course.

Chapter 11 May The Force Be With You: Physics What are the forces in a turn that allow skiers to lean over like they were in some sort of fun house slanted-wall room? The major three major forces are gravity, centrifical and centripital force. Gravity's effects are obvious as it pulls you down a hill, Centrifical on the other hand is trickier. This apparent force feels like it is pulling straight out from the arc of the turn, but actually it isn't. Think of a car making a turn on ice, if it slips and breaks off the turning arc, it will skid not straight out , but at a tangent down and out.

In order to effectively use centrifical force, you need to angulate more near the bottom on the turn instead of the center of the turn. Picture the capital C representing the turn. If the forces of the turn a greatest at the bottom corner of the C, then the body has to braced strongest against the force at this point. Simply speaking, the body has to be in the lowest or in a flexed position at the last corner of the representing C shaped turn.

Centripital force pulls you to the inside and counters the Centrifical force, thereby keeping you in balance. In fact, the force would pull you inside into the center of the turn, if centrifical force wasn't there. This centripital force is a real force because you must turn your feet to create it; otherwise, you would be going straight. You will ride a fine line as you balance between the two forces. As the Centrifical force increases with speed and shape of the turn, the applied centripital force must be increased as well. You will increase this force by dropping the hip more to the inside of the turn and steering the feet more across the falline.

The best skiers can maintain a strong sense of balance while the forces build and become great. It is at this point that the balancing point becomes very small and only experience will tell you just how much to drop the hip and steer the feet. One way to demonstrate how to counter the forces in the turn is to play a game of tug'o war with a friend. Use a set of ski poles as the rope and try to pull the other skier over his skis toward you. As you pull, you will find yourself getting into a lower or flexed position. This pulling force is exactly the same as centrifical during the turn. The lowering of the body, while keeping the upper body facing towards the pull is the most effective way to counter the force.

Chapter 12 Foot steering The steering skill is a given, because you should know that if you want to turn you must guide and twist your feet in the direction of the turn as a first step. All turning movements are initiated by the feet. Turning your feet and countering the forces built up in the turn is the whole key to skiing. Expert skiers are often referred to as having hot or educated feet. You must learn how to control your feet. They are the secret to great skiing. The subtle changes in the foot position dictate how much the skis turn, dig the edge into the snow and control speed.

The foot is the means by which the ski is directed across the falline. It is a twisting of the foot while moving that allows the ski to be steered. Instructors demonstrate foot steering by scribing an arc in the snow with the ski boot. The movement simulates exactly the foot steering needed in all levels of skiing. Another trick is to set the poles on each side of the skis stuck in the ground. Try to twist the foot against the poles. The force you use to twist is the turning force used to start a turn.

Chapter 13 Edging Edging and pressure are the skills that will bring you from the perpetual intermediate to the raging expert. Instructors talk about the slippery-sliddy turns and the edgy-pressure turns. As a beginner, you learn how to skid the skis on the easy slopes, but soon you need to progress to the more precise carves as the terrain steepens.

You must get on the edge of the ski and make it bite into the snow and ice. The skis need to be guided onto its edge by rolling the foot onto its side. The more the foot is rolled, the more the ski is on edge and the more biting power the skis will have.

Just like the way martial art experts talk about the knife edge of the hand, think of the foot in the same way. The inside edge of the foot does all the work. The only time the feet are held flat footed on the skis is when you are going perfectly straight or standing still. The way you balance on the edge of your foot, and thus, the edge of your ski is called your edging skills.

The edging skills control the skis and give speed as well as direction control. Instructors always harp about the four skills being balance, steering, edging and pressure control, but at the upper level, you must understand the intricate balancing act of edging the ski.

On easy shallow terrain, you don't need to edge as much because the forces of the turn are not very great. In the steeps and at high speed, the forces are going to demand a greater edge angle on the snow. If you simply drop the hip inside and rotates your upper body towards the pull in the turn, the ski can be easily edged and thus maximum control can be gained.

Chapter 14 Pressure Pressure is the next skill in the learning game. Skiing is more than just riding on the edge of the ski. Pressure must be put on the ski in order for it to carve the turn and give control. Think of the sound made by the skis when gliding down the slopes. Pressure is nothing more than taking that vibration of the skis and pushing it back into the snow by pushing on the edge of the foot.

Skiing professionals talk about educated feet, and this is the learner's goal: push on the snow while turning. Pressuring the skis is a very complicated balancing act. In order to fully gain control over the skis, first, know how much weight to focus on each ski for the appropriate terrain. On the groomed runs, experts have the majority of weight focused on the outside or downhill ski. In powder and and bumps, the weight should be more equally weighted so the skis can be used as a single platform, thereby not allowing one ski to sink more than the other into the soft snow.

Instructors like to bring clients up by giving them success, then slowly introducing them to the harder terrain. Through self education, skiers can gradually reacquaint themselves to the slopes. Furthermore, at $60 an hour, a pro can be an expensive tour guide. Start off on the easier terrain, then progress to the steeper runs control and confidence is gained. The first afternoon or second day should be the lesson day for any level skier. Make sure an experienced instructor who is full certified in PSIA (Professional Ski Instructor of America) gives you the lesson. These guys are highly skilled pros who are rigorously tested by their peers to insure a quality lesson.

Chapter 15 Crossover: Starting the Turns You most likely have problems initiating your turns. Your turns are probably choppy and don't have the smooth flow and polish of the pro skier. The trick is simply a combination of cross-over and cross-under. The cross-over is simply taking the upper body and crossing it over the front of the skis at the finish of the turn. The move is a subtle one, it takes only a few inches of movement, but it unweights the ski for that crucial second allowing the start the next turn. The movement is forward and toward the new turn center. In other words, it involves taking the center of mass (which is around the pelvis) and moving it from inside of the turn over the skis and toward the downhill side, while at the same time rolling the skis over onto the new inside edges. It's as easy as that. Think of the body as always moving in a straighter line than the skis.

After the rise of extension (as described in the flexion and extension chapter) simply push off the uphill leg to straighten it. As the stance gets taller, bring the pelvis, then the chest and finally the chin up to a proud position. This will put the center of body mass over the top of the skis and in a forward position. This crossover movement will make it easier to steer the skis downhill.

The open door technique The open door technique is a great way to teach the feeling of the crossover initiation. While standing in the static position with the skis perpendicular to the fall line or across the hill, place the poles in the bullfighter position or like a doorway facing the bottom of the hill. The feeling of the crossover can be achieved by extending off the uphill leg and moving into the doorway created by the poles.

The crossover move is intimidating as it involves throwing the natural fear instinct of staying behind the ski out the window. It is at this point that most intermediates find themselves stuck. They simply will not make the commitment to getting forward and stepping out of their comfort zone. Until the crossover is mastered, the smooth flowing style of the expert will never be achieved.

Chapter 16 The Body's Two Halves: Where They Go

The second rule is the uphill half of the body is always forward of the downhill half. This allows the body to open to the downhill side. This rule applies to the feet, knees, hips, hands and shoulders. The rules are simple, if the time is taken to force the body into the position. Remember, use the progression of the pros. You are started off on the easier terrain where the fear isn't a factor. It takes a while, but the control gained form proper body position is considerable.

Chapter 17 Downhill Intention: The Countered Position Remember flying down the slope when you tried to make a turn and ended up in a semi pirouette like a dancer going into a spin? Or the time you tried to ski the moguls and found yourself looking uphill flat on your back? These situations are common and the same mistake is made by every budding expert on their trek to the expert level.

The problem is quite simple to fix. Think again of the headlight progression. Remember the skis are like the tires of your car, as the car is steered into a turn, the headlights don't align with the wheels until the turn is completed. The same is true for the skis and shoulders. The shoulders face downhill until the turn is completed. Then and only then do the skis and shoulders align in the same direction.

Everything moves downhill Think of everything as moving downhill. The body must be facing downhill. After all, skiers move down the hill -- not up. Face toward the direction of travel or downhill. Think of it like this, the downhill direction is the future - where everyone wants to be - looking about 20 feet ahead. If you looks down at the ski tips, you can only see the snow presently being skied -- you are stuck in the present. further, you can't see what is coming up, hence you have to look to the future. If you get turned around or rotated toward the uphill side, you is looking to the past, this is the most common mistake. Why look back? It's already been done.

Again the hands The biggest mistake that causes skiers to get twisted up is the hand position. If the uphill hand is dropped to the side, it effectively closes the body off to the downhill side. The uphill hand and body has to be always forward of the downhill hand and body. this is the basic law of body position. The uphill half of the body has to forward of the downhill half.

Twisting the glove The problem for most comes from not finding the turning power necessary to twist the feet. If you always keep your upper body facing downhill, your feet will have a stationary object to turn against. The rotational force can be best demonstrated by twisting a glove like wringing out a towel. Hold the glove by the top and let the glove untwist itself. Think of the top of the glove as the upper body and the lower part of the glove as the legs. The glove will right itself without having to twist the upper half. The body works on the same principal. The upper half of the body doesn't have to move in order to turn or steer the feet. If the upper body straightens and follows with the turn, the power to turn will be lost. A countered or downhill intention must be maintained in order to deliver the turning power.

The upper body has to be quiet, stable and facing downhill in order to promote a balanced position.The best skiers seem to move over the snow regardless of the terrain because they have mastered this technique. This balanced position comes from keeping a countered position or downhill intention with the upper body. The position of the upper torso also turns the hip in an open position to the downhill side which in turn keeps the feet and skis controlled.

Skiers who tend to rotate the upper body with their turns effectively lose edge engagement, while over steering and skidding their turns. As the body closes to the downhill side or rotates with the turn, the feet will flatten and the ski will lose edge angle. The knees lose their ability to drive inside with as the hip closes. The knees then only have the ability to bend forward, which does nothing for edge engagement.

Chapter 18 Pole Position When holding the pole, think of it as a little bird. Don't kill it, so grip it gently. Use the thumb and the index finger to grip it firmly, while the bottom three finger are looser so the pole and pendulum in the hand. Practice this technique before going on the slope. The common misconception is that the pole is used for planting. The word "plant" is a misnomer. If the pole is actually planted every time, you would have to slam it into the ground with a strong grip. This strong grip will make it necessary to use an arm movement. Try gently kissing the ground with the pole tip. This technique is especially helpful when the terrain is groomed.

The pole is used in conjunction with the rising motion of the crossover. As the uphill leg is straightened and the body rises toward the new turn center, the pole can be swung using only the wrist. As extension occurs, enough room is made for the pole to come forward. When the top of your rise is reached, that is when the pole is gently touched. The pole tip touches on the ground near the tip of the ski or further down the hill as the terrain steepens. It is imperative that the arm position doesn't change. In fact, it rarely changes. Hold the hands out like holding a tray. If you drop your hands, a proper pole touch cannot be achieved. The magic word here is wrist action.

Chapter 19 Arm Position: Imperative for Balance Think of the arm position as a zone that encompasses a 10 inch circle. If the hands move out of the circle, the dynamic balance of the body will be affected. If the balance of the body is depicted by a high diver doing spins and flips on a spring board, we can notice how a winged out arm will cause the body to rotate in the opposite direction. Another example is the ski jumper who uses the extended hands as a air brake to pull the body back in balance. Of course, the balance of the downhill skier is not so adversely affected by the winged out hand, but the fact still remains that if a hand is moved a reaction in balance will be the result.

Pole use in moguls The pole usage changes when the terrain changes to moguls or double black diamond terrain. This is when the pole used more aggressively. Professionals call this pole plant "blocking". A blocking pole touch is made while the body is in the down position. The pole becomes a sort of split-second fulcrum at the end of the turn. The pole swings out and blocks or stabilizes the body before the next turn is started. The pole momentarily impacts with the snow and gives the body an additional point on the snow with which to establish a recentering of balance. This pole usage is more of a plant than a touch.

Chapter 20 Counter Movement & Counter Rotation Becoming an expert skier is more like a master magician performing your craft of illusion rather than any precise formula laid in stone. The counter movement is the art of performing this illusion, thus making the fluid motions of expert skiing seem effortless. In fact, you make a twisting movement of the upper body allowing the onlooker to see only an upper body position that faces somewhat down the hill at all times. Skiers must perform this move in order to keep the turning force of counter rotation always at hand. If we look at the old theory of motion, which states, that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. It relates like this, if the upper body is facing down the hill, it will allow the feet to be pulled toward the upper body or down the hill, while the upper body again moves against the skis direction of movement -- over the skis -- as they cross the fall-line and realign on the opposite side of the skis again facing down the hill. The counter movement also is used as a balance fine tuning device, before the counter rotation of steering into the new turn is actually made.

Chapter 21 Smooth Transitions: Give it Up Turns When trying to position students on the downhill ski and make carving rather than skidding a reality, the "give it up" turn seems to work miracles. The trick is essentially to take pressure off the downhill ski at the end of the turn and begin the pressure again on the uphill ski, while initiating the next turn. Just as the name implies, you must give up standing on the downhill ski and transfer the weight to the uphill ski just as you start steering the ski into the falline. This movement will effectively make an early weight transfer and assist in making a smooth transition. You must believe in the newly weighted ski's ability to come around in the turn.

Chapter 22 Mogul Skiing: Intermediate Joe's Dilemma Joe came to the ski school frustrated by the moguls, which is typical for most skiers. He wanted to learn the proper technique, and after analysis of a few turns, his problem was obvious--he never really learned the fundamentals-- simple balance. His problem wasn't that he didn't have the correct technique; it was pretty good. He just never learned to start the turn in a forward balanced position (the correct position feels like the weight is directly over the toes).